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  Quaffers® Feature - March 2002
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| You say Garnacha, I say Grenache: so what's in a name? |
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 Your name for this grape variety will depend largely on which side of the Pyrenees you drink it. Garnacha (or Garnacha Tinta) in its homeland of Spain, it is more widely-known internationally as Grenache (or Grenache Noir), having risen to prominence in classic Rhône Valley blends. The Spanish kingdom of Aragon ruled this corner of the world for centuries in the Middle Ages, taking vines from Navarra into Rioja, then over the mountains into southern France, indeed everywhere it held influence. However Sardinia also lays claim to the variety, calling it Cannonau. Whatever the truth behind its provenance, there is no doubting its importance in some of the world’s favourite wines.
This is the world’s second most-planted grape (after Airén), thriving predominantly in arid climates where other varieties struggle to cope with dry conditions, heat and winds. In fact the worse the vine is treated, the better the results appear to be. Grown on poor soils, the roots must go deep to find water, which also affects the yield of each plant. Lower yields generally result in greater concentration of flavour and colour; where irrigation has been permitted, yields have increased rapidly and to the detriment of the fruit produced. This hardy vine favours traditional bush-pruning and has a sturdy trunk which can make mechanical grape harvesting difficult. Early budding and maturing, the black, thin-skinned, white-fleshed grapes develop high sugar levels which ultimately convert to hefty alcohol with residual sweetness. There is, however, a tendency for Grenache wines to oxidise more quickly than others, and its relatively low tannin does not encourage much ageing. Of course there are exceptions to this rule! Single varietal Grenache or Garnacha wines are produced all over the world, but the grape is most often prized for what it can bring to a blend in terms of body and alcohol.
Spanish stalwart
Garnacha predominates in the North and East of Spain (although there are plantings more or less everywhere in the country), where it plays a major part in the production of several styles of wine. In Navarra, rosé wines with a light fruity character have been the traditional staple. However, over-production of highly alcoholic, frequently oxidised wines, consumer demand for more premium wine styles, and regional repositioning in the wider market have all conspired to decrease Garnacha plantings in the area.
It is in the great wines of Rioja that Garnacha has always played a vital rôle. Grown principally in the Rioja Baja region to the south and east of Logroño, which is drier than either Rioja Alta or Rioja Alavesa, Garnacha thrives in a long ripening season and harsh conditions which would not suit most grape varieties. The resulting base wine may have a rather rustic quality to it, but it also has the high alcohol required to give full body to the final blend. Likewise it adds a youthful juiciness to counteract the more tannic Tempranillo which also goes into the wine. The more Garnacha in the blend, the more powerful the final wine is likely to be. Moving from Rioja across the Iberian peninsula towards the Mediterranean Sea, the regions of Campo de Borja, Calatayud and Cariñena also make wines containing up to 100% Garnacha which are beginning to attract attention.
However Garnacha takes star billing in the eastern Catalonian region of Priorato. A relatively unknown DO outside Spain, Priorato has made wine for centuries, but it is only recently that a wider reputation for quality has been established under the supervision of a handful of dedicated producers. Careful restoration and management of old vines growing in hot sunshine on extremely poor slate and quartz soil (known locally as "llicorella", see picture above right), allied with controlled yields, has allowed the creation of intense wines with concentrated flavour. These require at least 13.75% alcohol by volume for the appellation, and may contain small quantities of other varieties. At the same time, hand-selection of fruit and scrupulously clean winery procedure has made all the difference in transforming the fortunes of the region. However consumers should be aware that such success has also bred envious rivalry between neighbours, and some are prepared to compromise rising standards by marketing inferior wines under the DO umbrella.
The French Connection
 Where would the Southern Rhône Valley be without Grenache? A moot point maybe, but some of the region’s greatest blends would be bereft if they did not include it. As in Spain, the vine provides early-maturing fruit, high sugar levels and excellent base wine. The classic combination is with Syrah and Mourvèdre (with small amounts of other varieties permitted in different appellations; indeed, in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, up to thirteen of these can be used). Appellations such as Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Côtes du Rhône (Villages) all rely on Grenache to add weight to their wines.
In Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the appellation demands a minimum 12.5% alcohol by volume due to the presence of the grape. This DOC is the spiritual home of Grenache, where it does particularly well on the large galets (known as "pudding stones" in English) which proliferate in this section of the river valley. Yields are low, but the fruit ripens well and does not suffer unduly in the hot dry Mistral wind which often persecutes other local agricultural crops. Again, the grape is largely used in blends, but there are some producers who are willing to make single varietal wines from low-yielding vines. Château Rayas leads the way, creating concentrated spicy examples which can age successfully, contradicting the general perception that Grenache has no staying power.
Further afield, Grenache can be found in the rosé wines of Tavel and Lirac, and in the vineyards of Roussillon, as still table wine or as the key ingredient in dark Vins Doux Naturels (VDN). Here the grapes are able to ripen fully in ideal growing conditions, thus developing the sugar levels necessary to be transformed into the fortified wines of Banyuls, Maury and Rivesaltes. Outside Roussillon, the only appellation with a dark VDN is Rasteau in the Côtes du Rhône.
It was to be many centuries before the influence of Grenache spread much wider than its western Mediterranean origins. As Europeans travelled to far-flung outposts, vines inevitably followed, and once more Grenache's propensity for poor soil and heat made it an obvious choice in many locations. There have been plantings in Calabria and Sicily, North Africa (Morocco and Algeria), South Africa, Israel, and more importantly, in Australia and California. Generally speaking, growers use free-standing bush pruning, control irrigation to affect yield, and blend the resulting wine.
New World, Old Vines
However, as more familiar grape varieties such as Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon increase in international popularity, both for quaffing and as premium wines, Grenache is having to take a back seat. Large tracts of vines have been grubbed up to make way for more commercial plantings. Yet where old vines can be found, some producers are taking a chance on making 100% Grenache wines. McLaren Vale in South Australia has been particularly successful in this respect. In California, a shortfall in Zinfandel harvest which might have limited the production of blush wines has often been rescued by "White Grenache" from the Central Valley region instead.
Whether you drink the grape in a blend, or try it in single varietal form, whether it comes from a traditional haunt or from the New World, Grenache has hidden virtues which are in danger of being lost in the wake of more commercial varieties. Yet these virtues can be brought out, through due respect for the nuances of the grape's viticulture and careful vinification, to create some fascinating wines. The blends are sure to continue, but the single varietals will rely on the mutual dedication of producers and consumers to keep Grenache on the world wine map.
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| Coming up next month: In April Quaffers® comes face to face with the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc phenomenon. |
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