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  Quaffers® Feature - May 2002
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| Ancient and modern: Sicily strikes back |
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 The Mediterranean island of Sicily may not immediately spring to mind when you think of Italian wine regions. Yet the country's largest province has the greatest area under vine and often makes more wine annually than Australia, Bulgaria and Chile put together. Much of this production does not see the light of day in a Sicilian bottle though, being used instead to blend with wine from other Italian regions, or indeed to top up the European Union's infamous "wine lake".
Sicily has a long and fascinating past, a volatile present, and an exciting future: and that's before its wine production is taken into account. This month we consider the island's relationship with the vine, looking at its history, some of its indigenous grape varieties, and one example of the modern partnerships which are emerging as local producers attempt to break into the international market.
Once upon a time…
Phoenicians probably brought vines to Sicily, and the arrival of the Greeks dates to around 800 BC. Within three centuries there is evidence of healthy vines at Syracuse. By then this colony on the Eastern side of the island was the biggest Greek city in the ancient world, outstripping even Athens in population. Cultivation appears to have taken place at sites all over the island, and the wines were known for their sweetness: an uncanny premonition of Marsala, which was to become Sicily's most important vinous export many centuries later. Amphorae found on Sicily indicate the wine style contained within, and there are indications that some of the wine was exported.
Arab rule came and went without seriously interrupting Sicilian wine production, in spite of religious contradiction. However by the Middle Ages (ruled by Normans and then Spaniards), wheat was the island's principal crop, being cheaper and faster to produce and sell than either wine or olive oil. The last two items were made in limited quantities for domestic consumption, but come the 14th century there was increased demand for quality wine both for wealthy Sicilians and for export. The industry expanded, primarily on the North-Eastern and Northern coasts. From here, safe passage to various Mediterranean ports could be assured for strong, sweet wines which would not deteriorate excessively during the journey. Bizarrely, despite surpluses on the island, Palermo had to import wine from the mainland because this was cheaper than transporting it across Sicily's mountainous interior.
Sicily's most famous international export to date must be Marsala. Englishman John Woodhouse was presented with it on a visit to the island in the late 18th century, and immediately saw its potential as an alternative to sherry and port. Within three years he had shipped the first consignment of dark, sweet fortified wine to Britain. Lord Nelson famously requisitioned large quantities of Marsala for the British fleet, assuring its popularity as the 19th century dawned. Unfortunately, since those halcyon days both the quality and the production of Marsala has been in steady decline, and although the impact of European Union regulations has tightened up production methods, this is still a wine more likely to be found in a Tiramisu pudding than on an off-licence shelf.
There has been greater success recently with the sweet wines Moscato di Pantelleria (also available as a Passito wine) from Pantelleria off the South-West coast of Sicily, and Malvasia delle Lipari from the Aeolian islands to the North-East, but despite their growing reputation they remain relatively obscure to all but the cognoscenti.
Top spot for top crops
Sicily has many natural advantages for vine cultivation which have been exploited over the centuries. The terrain is hilly and sometimes mountainous, with poor soil quality in most parts of the island, the obvious exception being the volcanically rich slopes of Mount Etna. Grapes can be grown at elevation, with some vineyards as high as 1000m above sea level, providing a cooling counterbalance to high annual sunshine hours and hot summers, and relatively low rainfall. The island also has several indigenous grape varieties which have the potential to form the basis of a unique Sicilian wine industry of the future. The local authorities have intervened to encourage irrigation and fertilisation, but these practices have led to quantity rather than quality, hence the vast amounts of Sicilian wine sent to other Italian regions for blending. Conversely, vine training methods have changed from traditional bush-pruning towards the overhead pergola-style tendone system. The influence of the viticultural research station at Palermo is also bringing native varieties back into the frame, as producers realise the potential benefits of releasing Sicilian wine with Sicilian labels.
| Principal Sicilian indigenous grape varieties |
| White grapes |
Black grapes |
| Inzolia (aka Ansonica) |
Frappato |
| Catarratto |
Nero d'Avola |
| Grillo - principally used for Marsala |
Nerello Mascalese |
Slowly but surely a handful of local winemakers have emerged to resurrect the quality Sicilian wine industry, many of them operating outside the DOC regulations to enable them to experiment. The focus is on native varieties, but imported vines also offer new blending opportunities to strengthen the wines to appeal to a wider market. Some of the most interesting wines (for example those from the private estates of Regaleali and Terre di Ginestra) appear labelled as Vino da Tavola, while exhibiting premium quality. At the same time, the co-operatives have begun to appreciate the value of becoming active in developing the Sicilian region as a discrete identity. Consequently partnerships which unite viticultural expertise with vinification knowledge and marketing awareness are seen by many as the key to Sicily's long-term future.
Inycon initiative
 One such example of these joint ventures is the recently established link between the Settesoli co-operative and Enotria Winecellars in England, branded Inycon after the ancient name for Menfi where the co-operative is based. Settesoli is the major co-operative concern on Sicily, with access to a vast acreage of vines and the necessary vinification methods to ensure quality varietal wines. Led by the head of the local Planeta label, growers have been encouraged to maintain traditional Sicilian and Italian varieties but also plant the likes of Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Enotria brings the experience of long-standing agency and wholesale interests both in the UK and internationally, allied with appropriate sales, marketing and logistical support.
The basic principle is simple, sharp and typical of the 21st century approach to consumerism: generate brand confidence first with wines made from familiar varietals (Chardonnay, Syrah) around an accessible price point, then diversify into less well-known grapes such as Aglianico and Nero d'Avola. With an Australian winemaking consultant, computer technology to track the grapes from vine to blend, and Milan styling used to create distinctive packaging, the brand has quickly established itself as a firm favourite in Britain. It's a grand masterplan, and one which will be fascinating to follow as the native varietal wines start to appear on the shelves.
Whatever direction the Sicilian wine industry pursues in years to come, projects such as the Inycon initiative can only help to build a strong identity which will enable the region to compete in a crowded market. The more modern expertise is applied to one of the most ancient wine-making traditions in the world, the more likely Sicily is to develop its toehold in the wine-drinking public's consciousness. It has the potential in terms of resources and ambition; now we just have to wait and see if it has the bottle to match.
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| Coming up next month: Great wine families of Europe |
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