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  Quaffers® Feature - June 2001
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 Chile: A Study in Splendid Isolation
Is Chile the Jurassic Park of Wine? So much has conspired to keep one of the New World's oldest wine-making regions preserved in amber: geographical isolation has been exacerbated by periodical technological stagnation, fluctuating political stability and an ambivalent internal market.
The arrival of vines in Chile dates to that of European conquerors to the Americas after 1492. Sacramental wine was required for Catholic Mass in the missions, but it was not until the 19th century that Chile really entered the international market as a producer of wines for pure enjoyment. At this time European cultivation expertise and quality French rootstock were brought across the Atlantic so that Chile could attain new standards in wine production. It was then to be over a hundred years before the next great leap forward in the late 1970s.
Protection and Preservation: the influence of the land
 Long and thin (4,200km North to South, average 175 km wide), wedged between the Andes to the east and the Pacific ocean to the west, Chile's climate zones range from high dry desert to vast sub-Antarctic icefields. Each of these conditions contributes to a unique environment in which to grow grapes, effectively providing formidable natural barriers to some of the problems which have dogged wine producers in most other parts of the world. Unlike many other regions, the climate is predictable to the extent that Chileans winemakers can take risks of which others can only dream: for example leaving fruit on the vine for longer to ripen because rain and frost are not the same seasonal unknown they can be elsewhere.
Chile has also remained phylloxera-free, away from the 19th century botanical exchange from New to Old World which introduced the pest to Europe from North America. Likewise the sandy soils to be found in some parts of the country, as well as exceptionally dry desert and alpine climates on the land borders, have played a part in keeping Chile free of unwanted vine pests. It has been possible to grow grapes on vines which have been planted directly in the soil without grafting, thereby giving "pure" forms of the varietals concerned.
¡Viva la Revolución!
Yet these excellent advantages have been compromised by several factors both within and beyond the industry. Locally, grapes have been for eating and export, with beer and the grape spirit pisco as the beverages of choice; wine strictly for enthusiasts. There has been a blanket approach to viticulture, rather than the site-specific science prevalent in other wine-growing economies. In the past Chilean grapes have been planted haphazardly with scant regard for suitable conditions, different varietals have ended up side by side (leading to great confusion as to the fruit which has actually gone into a finished wine, and therefore if it is actually what it says on the label), irrigation has involved flooding whole valleys instead of watering judiciously only where it has been required.
In spite of this background, change is afoot. While some of the historical benefits of distance and doing things the local way are maintained, the arrival of modern viticultural conquistadors has brought the prospect of far-reaching development and progress to an industry which currently ranks as a relative underachiever. Uniting tradition and innovation with abundant natural resources is the key to Chile's future success.
To this end, the involvement of established Old World wine families or companies has provided invaluable technological support and know-how. Look behind many Chilean success stories of the past few years and you will find an Old World expert. Since the 1979 introduction of stainless steel facilities to the Chilean vineyard by Miguel Torres (of Catalonia, Spain), and the increasing use of oak barrels instead of the traditional rauli beechwood, there has been a quiet but persuasive revolution. Wineries serious about their future have been forced to follow Torres’ example by investing in machinery and equipment as well as knowledge. All the elements are finally in place for the Chilean wine industry to capitalise on a growing international reputation for good quality at great prices.
Grapes and Growing
The position of most vineyards near rivers running across Chile from the Andes to the ocean affords a degree of protection and some variety in growing conditions. Sea breezes cool the vines near coastal hills, while closer to the Andes the nights carry a light chill. Here the colour and acid in the grapes can be marked. Water arrives from the Andean snows via the rivers, rather than relying on rain. Where it doesn’t reach quite far enough, irrigation is permitted.
Many of the river valleys give their names to the Chilean appellation system, with five main regions sub-divided further. The extent of the vine-growing area is limited to the centre of the country, in the vicinity of the capital Santiago de Chile. For a full list of Chilean regional denominations and producers, www.vinasdechile.com is an excellent source of information.
Classic red wine grape varieties thrive in Chilean conditions, with a reliable warmgrowing season allowing full ripening and consistent fruit quality. The adopted native País is still the most widely planted grape but, as classic varietals become more economically important, its stranglehold is loosening. Carmenère (also known as Grande Vidure), until recently identified as Merlot, is beginning its journey to wider recognition. With many Merlot-like characteristics, this Bordeaux-born varietal has been the focus of much debate, but genetic tests reveal that it is a distinct species.
It has proved more difficult for white varieties to become established in the same way. The heat conspires against ideal growing conditions because the grapes have a tendency to ripen too fast, reducing the acidity needed for a well-balanced white wine. The search is on for ideal micro-climates, with some success already: Sauvignon Blanc has shown potential in the cooler Casablanca valley, with many examples having the refreshing acidity which is typical of the varietal.
What is certain is that Chilean wine producers now demonstrate a willingness to embrace all the possibilities offered to them by combining abundant natural resources with the latest advances in viticulture. From also-rans to world-beaters in a generation, Chile is in the best circumstances to meet the challenges of the new millennium. What’s Jurassic about that?
Our Wine of the Week gives you an idea of what to expect from Chilean wines.
Taste the wines with us here
Perhaps one of your favourite Chilean wine grapes wasn't featured?
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| Coming up next month: Summer is here and it's time for a holiday. Quaffers® goes exploring in the South-West of France. |
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