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  Quaffers® Feature - July 2001
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 Beyond Bordeaux:
Quaffers® en vacances in South-West France
Bordeaux has been doing what comes naturally with grapes for so long that its tradition and reputation tends to dominate the modern world wine industry. As much as any other region does to redress the balance, the Bordeaux stranglehold on wine drinkers’ consciousness is proving hard to break.
Yet just a few kilometres down the road, a patchwork of distinctive appellations has quietly got on with doing things their own way. With summer holiday spirit in mind, Quaffers® takes you on a virtual jaunt through the vineyards of the true South-West, indulging in tasting and tourism en route.
W/b 7 July 2001
Head out of Bordeaux on the D396, ignore tempting signs for the village of St Emilion, and make straight for Bergerac. Located on the Dordogne, the town has a history of river trade in wine, tobacco and maize. This is the capital of "Périgord Pourpre" (Purple Perigord), so-called because of the black grapes grown locally. Admire the statue of Cyrano, before wondering if I should hang on a few more days for the food festival held annually in honour of the thwarted romantic hero. Decide to enjoy some of the local wine instead, then press on.
Bergerac produces wines of all types, its most famous export being the sweet white from Monbazillac. You can visit the Château which overlooks the vines about 6km south of Bergerac, and indulge in a small dégustation (tasting). Of the other wines from the area, most are relatively light-bodied and quite hard to distinguish from their Bordelais counterparts, except perhaps in price! Merlot is the predominant black grape, with a Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon/Muscadelle blend the popular choice for producing white wines.
Immediately south is Côtes de Duras, again scarcely dissimilar from Bordeaux in style, and hedging its bets by producing wines of all types. Likewise the wines of the Côtes du Marmandais follow the same pattern. The gastronomic opportunities around here are what provides the real gourmet experience, and the locals are justifiably proud of the range of specialities such as truffles, foie gras and any number of goose and duck variations.
W/b 14 July 2001
 From Marmande, strike east again towards Cahors, arriving in time for a look around before Bastille Day fireworks in the evening. The town is surrounded on three sides by the River Lot, with 14th century fortifications on the northern landside. Of the bridges which link the peninsula with the neighbouring countyrside, Pont Valentré is the one I find on all the postcards: three staunch medieval towers guarding the town. The cathedral is also worth a visit, but wandering around old streets festooned with tricolore banners and filled with happy citizens on national holiday is probably more fun.
 The wines of Cahors are exclusively red, and their dark appearance has seen them dubbed "black" before now. Malbec (also known locally as Cot or Auxerrois) is the principal grape, with a minimum 70% of it blended with one or both of Merlot and Tannat and oak-aged to create dense, tannic wines. These can have a long shelf-life, but are often disregarded because the tannins are relatively pronounced and can obscure the fruit to the point of distaste for the unfamiliar palate.
For those willing to acquire the taste, young Cahors goes well with the ubiquitous foie gras, while older bottles are ideal with game and wildfowl. The medicinal properties of the wines are hard to ignore: it is said that a glass of Cahors each day (preferably accompanied by a slice of foie gras) contains enough of the right tannins to protect against heart disease.
W/b 21 July 2001
Choose one of the many scenic country routes between Cahors and Albi, looking forward to the wines of Gaillac. The monumental cathedral greets me from afar as I approach the town, and once inside I find it full of architectural and religious curiosities. The Toulouse-Lautrec Museum is also a must-see, filled with images of Paris and the Belle Epoque. Think Can-Can dancing girls rather than Degas ballerinas. Later in the week enjoy the buzz in the Rose City of Toulouse, so called because of the pink brick used in so many of its historical buildings. Right up to date, I also visit the Cité de l’Espace space centre, then kick myself for not booking a tour of Aérospatiale in advance, where I could have toured the company which has brought Airbus, Concorde and the Ariane rocket to the world. Never mind, the wines will see me through once again!
In fact I can get all kinds of wine from the Gaillac appellation, there are so many grape varieties grown here. Local black grape vines Duras and Fer are often blended with Gamay and Syrah brought in from eastern France, or with the Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc from Bordeaux; the well-known Gaillac white is the Mauzac grape, with other whites taken from the Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle (all widely grown in Bordeaux) along with local Len de l’El and Ondenc. Mauzac is used in dry white wines, but more famously in sweet and/or fizzy blends.
Swinging back towards the South-West proper, the Côtes du Frontonnais have been referred to by Hugh Johnson in his annual Pocket Wine Books as "the Beaujolais of Toulouse". Make of that what you will; I think he means that the red and rosé wines from here are light-bodied and easy-drinking, with the Négrette grape bringing fruity blackberry to the blend.
W/b 28 July 2001
Heading for the Pyrenees now after passing through Armagnac, where they make brandy from wine distilled only once, giving more concentrated flavour but lower alcohol content. This is the Gascon heartland of the South-West: tiny villages dotting the countryside, rugby the prevailing sport, religious shrines and way-stations ensuring a steady stream of visitors. The road can take you to Lourdes or into the mountains at St Jean Pied de Port, on the pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostela. Wherever, the possibilities for walking are endless. As I enter French Basque country, I look and listen for the signs of nationalism which would be obvious across the border in Spain. It seems the approach is more gentle and conciliatory on the northern side of the frontier!
In Madiran the black Tannat grape comes into its own, the key ingredient in many a local blend, the tell-tale signs being tar on the nose and huge tannins in the wine. These wines are definitely keepers, as those who have already discovered this neglected region will attest. Another local grape, Abouriou, can also be found in some blends. For whites, dry or semi-dry Pacherenc du-Vic-Bilh leads the way, combining several varieties including Arrufiac (aka Ruffiac and Arrufiat).
But the truly original white wine from this part of the world comes from Jurançon near Pau and Lourdes in the Pyrenean foothills, where Gros and Petit Manseng are the grapes of choice. Their thick skins and low yield, as well as juicy green flavour, produce both dry (labelled sec) and sweet (moelleux) wines. The latter is made from grapes which have dried into raisins on the vine, rather than succumbing to noble rot as with many other great sweet white wines of the world. Nearby Béarn (home of Béarnaise sauce) also uses both of the Manseng varieties for white wines, and Tannat for reds and rosé wines.
Finally, right up against the border in deep Basque territory, lies Irouléguy. Steep vineyards are planted above the town of St Jean Pied de Port, and until recently this was an appellation on its last legs. However it has been brought back from the brink, with its rosé and light red wines as the flagships (made from Tannat and the two Cabernets). White wines made from the two Mansengs have also made a comeback.
So next time you reach for a bottle of Claret, think further south-west and give some of these other appellations a chance. If nothing else, your bank manager will thank you for it, but you just might find something that appeals enough to become a firm and deserving favourite in your cellar.
Sample some of the vast range of South-West wines each week this month.
Taste the wines with us here
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| Coming up next month: Summer’s still with us, so we give our attention to refreshing rosé wines worldwide. |
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