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  Quaffers® Feature - November 2001
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| Season of mists: a very English harvest |
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 Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness,
Close bosom-friend of the maturing sun;
Conspiring with him how to load and bless
With fruit the vines that round the thatch-eaves run;
John Keats, "To Autumn"
There can't be many chocolate-box cottages in the shires with productive vines around the doors and windows, yet that does not mean that the possibility of English wine exists only in literature. In fact, since Roman times wine-making has been part of the landscape in the British Isles, its prominence and success dependant on the vagaries of climate, history and taste.
First a few practicalities with regard to the concept of English wine. The term officially applies to wine made in England or Wales. "British Wine", on the other hand, is imported grape concentrate which is then reconstituted and does not comply with the EU definition of "wine". English wines are produced from outdoor vines which grow on the limits of geographical viability, around latitude 51ºN. (The ideal zones are 30º-50ºN and 30º-50ºS). Thus commercially-produced wines from Scotland are thwarted by the climate, and they are compelled to make whisky instead.
363 English or Welsh vineyards extend into the North-East of England, and experimental vines have recently been planted on the Isles of Scilly. Classic grapes tend to need more warmth than is offered by English latitude, although some are cultivated; however, less familiar grape names abound: Seyval Blanc, Madeleine Angevine, Bacchus, Dornfelder, Kernling, Reichensteiner and many more crossings or hybrids, created in the search for hardy plants which can survive the harshest weather conditions. Many operations have such limited commercial output that supplies are exhausted in cellar-door sales alone. Conversely, some producers have grown so rapidly that their wines are now available in the high street and supermarkets, as well as by mail order or at the vineyard itself. 92% of production is white wines.
The English wine industry is gradually expanding as growers establish a name for themselves and their wines become more popular. In 2000, 16 000 hectolitres of wine was produced in England: small change in comparison with Chile (approx. 4.5 million hl) and France (approx. 50 million hl). Yet English wines are winning prizes against world-wide competition. At the 2001 International Wine Challenge, eight English bottles walked away with medals, including six sparkling wines. This reflects the suitability of the climate and soil to produce grapes for this kind of wine, as well as the history of English sparkling wine-making, evidence of which pre-dates the same process in Champagne.
Our feature this month concentrates on three vineyards, each very different in character, demonstrating the breadth of English wine production. At this time of year, the harvest is in and vintners are deciding how to render the fruits of loaded, blessed vines into wines which are fast developing a healthy reputation.
Cornish cream - Polmassick Vineyard
St Ewe, St Austell, Cornwall
Tel. (01726) 842 239
Open second May Bank Holiday to last Sunday in September, 11am - 5pm daily
 Despite having arguably the most clement climate in the country, Cornwall is home to only a handful of vineyards. Polmassick is one of these, a tiny plot of 2 1/2 acres close to the Lost Gardens of Heligan near St Austell. Planted onto the steep sunny slopes of a sheltered valley near the sea, this family-run business has been experimenting with different grape varieties since 1978.
Varieties that can survive the whims of the weather, or which are particularly disease-reistant, are given the chance to thrive in the open. More delicate plants are grown in polytunnels for protection. However those under plastic are not watered, forcing the roots to dig deep into the soil for hydration, which has the advantage of making the vines hardier.
Polmassick's first commercial crop was harvested in 1983, at only 2 tons. Since then the vineyard has gradually expanded plantings of vines which showed most promise in the early years of growing. The result is now a concentration on Seyval Blanc, Müller-Thurgau, Pinot Noir, Kernling, Ortega (a Riesling hybrid), Phoenix (a Bacchus hybrid) and Orion, although the search for the ideal grape continues unabated.
Owner-winemaker Barbara Musgrave has all the equipment for making her wines in a small shed on the property, which doubles as a tasting room outside vinification season. Harvesting has to be done by hand, due to the gradient of the vineyards, so a dedicated team of local volunteers is roped in late each September to help. Usually it takes three runs through the vines to get the ripe crop into the press, averaging 1-1.5 tons daily over three or four weeks. It's labour-intensive but rewarding, and reflects the spirit of community which prevails in the area. This spirit extends as far as helping non-commercial Cornish vineyards with experimental winemaking, by sharing Polmassick's facilities and expertise.
The winery makes seven wines, and a dessert blend which combines fermented grape juice with local plums. Three of the seven use süssreserve, in the German manner, to take the edge off the characteristic dryness of each blend. All have Cornish names, including "Rudhya", which means "blush", for the rosé wine. Virtually all of what is produced is sold on site or by mail order, with limited quantities available at a local wine shop, the National Trust property at Trelissick, and the Eden Project.
Super Southerner - Denbies Wine Estate
London Road (A24), Dorking, Surrey
Tel. 01306 876 616
www.denbiesvineyard.co.uk
Open daily throughout the year, Mon-Sat: 10am - 5.30pm; Sun: 11.30am - 5.30pm
 Denbies Wine Estate covers 265 acres of Surrey countryside near Dorking, an area where wine has been enjoyed since the days of Roman occupation. The soil in this part of England is predominantly chalky limestone, similar both geologically and in climate to Champagne in north-eastern France, so it's no surprise that both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are cultivated here to produce sparkling wine.
However there are four more black and a dozen white grape varieties packed into the estate's vineyards, and Denbies is now not only the largest vineyard in England, but also the largest privately-owned vineyard in Northern Europe. First vines were planted in 1986 on the site of a former pig and cattle farm, and now there are some 300,000 plants on the property. Familiar classic varieties grow alongside less commonly-known grapes such as Bacchus, Dornfelder and Schönburger, in a carefully-organised pattern which maximises the available space and its suitability for each variety.
The first commercial harvest was in 1989, only three years after first planting. Annual harvest at Denbies usually commences half-way through October, when the permanent staff is joined by extra bodies to bring in 40% of the grapes by hand. This practice is reserved for the fruit which will go into the top flight of Denbies wines. The remainder of the fruit is harvested mechanically, before vinification in the estate's massive state-of-the-art winery. Many of the eleven wines available are blended, bringing out different grape characteristics in each of the styles produced. However there are also single-varietal bottles, for example the 100% Pinot Noir Yew Tree which has been released for the first time in 2000.
Dreaming shires - Chiltern Valley Winery & Old Luxters Brewery
Old Luxters, Hambleden, Henley-on-Thames, Oxon. RG9 6JW
Tel. 01491 638 330
www.luxters.co.uk
Open daily throughout the year, Mon-Fri: 9am - 6pm; Sat & Sun: 11am - 5pm
 Quality and diversity are the watchwords on this small property in the sloping, wooded Chiltern hills between Henley-on-Thames and Marlow. As well as five liqueurs and an award-winning range of real ales, eleven wines are made in the winery here. Grapes for these come from one hectare of plantings on site (Madeleine Angevine, Bacchus and Reichensteiner are the only varieties under cultivation), supplemented by others grown locally. Contract winemaking for other vintners has diminished in recent years, as owner/winemaker David Ealand concentrates on making the most of his own crop to develop the reputation of the Chiltern Valley brand.
On the site of Old Luxters pig farm (hence the name), the winery is now in its 21st year, and the maiden harvest was in October 1984. As with many small vineyards, picking is undertaken by hand, with friends, volunteers and interested parties brought in to do the work on the reasonably steep ground. The latest harvest was brought in under the worst weather conditions of wind and damp that anyone can remember, but for all that, the prognosis is good. The juice is currently undergoing cold fermentation in stainless steel vats, and will be blended and bottled by June of next year. Only one of the wines spends any time in oak, and the medium and medium-dry wines are given a dose of unfermented grape juice to create their unique balance of sweetness and acidity.
However, the Luxters experience does not stop with wine. Visitors can enjoy the brewery side of the business, and full tours are available for groups of 15 or more (book in advance). There's a shop selling everything made on the farm, and plenty more besides. The old barn hosts events, including performances by Luxters own opera company, and there is even the facility to have bespoke bottle-labels made for special occasions. Wines are available by mail order, and are also on sale in select shops such as Chatsworth House in Derbyshire, and the Windsor Farm shop at Windsor Castle.
Three down, only 360 to go! Far from being a moribund industry, English wines are now coming into their own, especially as the climate appears to be changing to offer warmer, more appropriate grape-growing conditions for more of the year. There is sure to be a vineyard somewhere near you, so why not give them a ring, pay a visit, and learn more about making wine on your own doorstep?
Further information about English wines and vineyards can be found on the English Wine Partnership website www.englishwinepartnership.co.uk
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| Coming up next month: Quaffers® gets the festive ball rolling by matching seasonal wines to international Christmas puddings. |
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