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  Wine-mine review - November 2001
Digging up great ideas for wine lovers...
This month we reviewed a vineyard: Denbies Wine Estate
 The Denbies wine experience can be as big or as small as you choose to make it. For those who know little about the daily workings of a winery, the official tour of the facilities is tempting. It's also hard to avoid, as the reception area in the foyer is the tour's starting point. There is also an external tour of the vineyard by mini-train, or visitors are free to stroll any of the seven miles of vineyard trail independently.
The programme begins, in a comfortable purpose-built room, with a 360º film presentation of a year in the life of the vineyard. The film is packed full of information about Denbies, but visitors need to keep their eyes peeled for the screen which has the main picture at any given moment. Throughout, the history and tradition of local life and work is intertwined with the story of the vineyard. A stereo soundtrack is mellifluously voiced by Radio 4's Jenni Murray; when she is not speaking there is a somewhat intrusive musical accompaniment, showcasing English hymns and pastoral overtures.
Following the film, visitors are invited to join a convoy of mechanised pew-like cars which proceed through the working parts of the winery. This transport is ideal for those who may be infirm, but it also feels rather like getting onto an amusement park ride! All major pieces of equipment in the production line are clearly labelled. Again a voice-over is offered to explain what can be seen, although it is rather muted, and there is no immediate opportunity to ask questions or seek clarification as would be the case in a winery tour conducted on foot.
Finally visitors arrive in a subterranean tasting hall, where a brief explanation of the vineyard map and grape varieties grown is followed by a tasting of three of the estate's wines (included in the entry fee). This is overseen by a Denbies guide, who is a fount of information, and answers all questions knowledgeably while the visitors enjoy trying the wine. Non-alcoholic grape juice is provided for any teetotallers or children on the tour.
As a basic introduction to how modern wineries operate, the Denbies tour gives the overall idea, in an efficient and slick package. The estate is a large-scale concern with many visitors who want to see how wine is made at first hand, so such a controlled experience is perhaps understandable. However, it does seem to lack that element of warm personality which can make winery visits so memorable and valuable in a broader wine education. By all means start your education here, but make sure to visit plenty of other wineries too.
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| Title: |
Denbies Wine Estate |
| Price: |
£7.25 for winery tour; £4.00 for vineyard train. Concessions for senior citizens and children |
| Address: |
London Road, Dorking, Surrey, RH5 6AA |
| Tel: |
01306 876 616 |
| Rated: |
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See some more great reviews from over the past few months...
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